🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.